Chapter 3
I find that the "King's Consort" can cook, hear of the
good old days of the Midlands, learn the genesis of bushranging, and
tell a true fish-yarn.
Campbell Town was one of a chain of
townships whose sites were selected by Governor Macquarie in 1821, the
object being to open up the route between Hobart Town and Port
Dalrymple. The local administrator was enjoined to encourage useful
settlers, mechanics, tradesmen and innkeepers; but growth was so slow
that the Irish exile Meagher recorded thirty years later that it took
him under twenty minutes to make a survey of Campbell Town. "This
celebrated town," he says, "consists of one main street with
two or three dusty branches to the left; and at right angles a sort of
boulevard in which the Police office, the lock-up and the stocks are
conveniently arranged. The main street has one side to it only. The ribs
of this side consist of four hotels; a warehouse; a board and lodging
house with Napoleon upon a green lamp just as you go in; half a dozen
private residences furnished with a ground floor and a back and front
entrance;-a jeweller's shop; butcher's stall, a signpost and two sheds.
Opposite to this line of edifices, and parallel with it, at an interval
of fifty feet; runs a wooden paling, which midway up the town is broken
by three cottages, a hayrick and the post office. Aloof, at the
uttermost extremity, in a straight line with the post office and the
hayrick, stands the Established Church-a gaunt structure compiled of
bricks with a facing of white stone."
"Mr Merino" is the main settler in Campbell Town, his arrival
in the colony dating from 1820. Early grantees established themselves
with comparatively large holdings in the Midlands, building handsome and
substantial residences, and naming many of the estates after their
former English homes. Export of wool began in 1822, the total
consignment being twelve bales bought in Tasmania at 4d. per pound and
sold in England for 7d. The Midlands were suited for raising sheep equal
to the world's best, and these graziers put their brains and their
energy into the business. The twelve bales of 1822 grew to over a
thousand next year, and now the wool export averages well over four
million pounds' worth per annum. Tasmanian Merino rams have brought as
much as sixteen hundred guineas at the mainland markets.
I do not like the term "Wool
Kings" applied to these graziers of the Midlands, but prefer to
think of them as approximating to the esquires and landed proprietors of
the Old Country whence they sprang. I say "approximating", for
they cast their lot in a better and freer country than the one they
left. As to climate, this is nearly perfection; and as to environment,
this is still nearer the ideal. These "Kings" worked with
their hands and their muscles, and adapted themselves to their
surroundings. It is the same with their descendants. Today they can take
their places at dipping sheep, at branding, at milking cows if need be,
at driving tractors, harvesting, and the thousand
and one tasks that make up the life of the Tasmanian settler. They are
gentlemen, but practical gentlemen. The soapbox orator pictures these
estate owners as gentlemen
of leisure who do nothing more strenuous than ride round their estates
and entertain other aristocrats at bridge or banquet, but they and their
sons and daughters work, and when hard times come-for wool and
wheat are not always profitable commodities they "buck in"
with the rest.
Whilst at Campbell Town I was invited to
one of the outlying properties. Shortly after I arrived, afternoon tea
was dispensed by one of the capable and cultured daughters of the house,
and I was made to feel that I was a welcome guest. "You will excuse
my wife for the time being," said the host; "As a matter of
fact she is doing things in the kitchen with a rolling-pin, for the cook
has an attack of 'flu; and my wife asks me to certify that it is even
better to put up with her own amateur efforts than to sit down to a meal
of bread and jam." I can say positively that the family was lucky
if the cook was as competent as her mistress, for the soup, the entree,
the roast lamb and the apple pie and tarts proved that the term
"amateur" as applied to the lady of the house by her husband
was a very definite misnomer. The average Tasmanian can turn his or her
hand to almost anything, and this was one small but practical evidence
of it.
Unfortunately, perhaps, the really picturesque era of the Midland
estates has passed. In the early days, many of their owners were
breeders of racehorses on pedigree lines and they had their own private
training courses. Packs of hounds were appurtenances of numerous homes,
and parks were set apart for deer. The "tally-ho" was almost
as common as the sound of the motor horn is today, and red-coated,
superbly mounted horsemen galloped the countryside and flew the fences,
alongside the handsome ladies riding side-saddle. The squire kept open
house, and open stable too, and the participants in the hunt gathered
from miles around. The preceding night was often spent in dancing till
daylight, and then followed the hunt breakfast as a preliminary to the
chase itself. Sometimes the quarry was a deer, sometimes a forester
kangaroo; failing them there was a "drag". Fortunately for
Tasmania's hen-roosts, Brer Fox is one of the pests that the island has
been spared-though Brer Rabbit has more than made up for the absence of
his ancient enemy.
As was the case at Oatlands, the northerly road hesitated again at Ross
and Campbell Town, first heading towards the Western Tiers, and at the
junction of the Isis and the Macquarie a "scite" was surveyed
for the town of Lincoln. The name still appears on some maps, but I have
never heard of anyone having walked the streets or stayed at the inns of
Lincoln. Another non-existent town, Latour, was to have sprung up at
Norfolk Plains, and the South Esk was crossed by a ferry at Perth. Later
the road went direct to Perth through Epping Forest, and the Esk was
bridged with the handsome stone edifice that was drowned and broken up
in the floods of 1929. As to Epping, the name "Forest" ought
to be dropped now, for this is nothing of a forest as Tasmania knows
that term. It is more like a nobleman's park, with gum trees instead of
oaks, and no undergrowth.
The celebrated inns of this early period were The Squeakers at Cleveland
and the The Bald-faced Stag at Epping. The buildings still stand, but
the signs and the licences have disappeared. Epping, in the days when
the added "forest" had a significance, was a favourite spot
for the holding up of coaches by highwaymen, and the two inns mentioned
entertained many a one of this fraternity. Freebooting was once more
popular perhaps in Tasmania than in any country on earth. The roving
bands of robbers were a real menace, and the resources of the
authorities were strained to breaking point to cope with the situation.
Bushranging continued with intermissions for close on eighty years, and
it was as late as 1881 that the last brace of murderers-Ogden and
Sutherland-paid for their crimes on the gallows, the principal scene of
their exploits again being Epping.
The causes of the prevalence of bushranging were various. Very often the
delinquents were escaped convicts who, with a price on their heads
already, had little to lose by committing a few more murders and
robberies. "A short life and a merry one" was their
motto-though it is difficult to visualize much merriment in pistolling
an inoffensive traveller. Another reason for the popularity of the
profession was that during the early famine period hunters were
encouraged to bring in kangaroo meat to the Government stores. The
roving life proved too alluring, and from hunting the kangaroo to the
hunting of men was only a step. During the times of Governors Davey,
Sorell and Arthur terrorism reigned, and scores of country settlers left
their homes in favour of the safety of Hobart or Launceston. Hayricks
and barns were fired, houses and persons robbed, and murders in cold
blood were frequent. Martial law was proclaimed, rescinded, and
proclaimed again. Rewards of increasing value were offered for the
apprehension of malefactors. Settlers formed themselves into bands and
soldiers were told off especially for the duty of hunting bushrangers.
At one time Governor Arthur personally took the field, and his vigorous
methods largely mended the situation, for subsequent to his regime the
outbreaks of lawlessness were comparatively few.
Andrew Bent, the father of the Tasmanian Press, published a pamphlet
entitled Michael Howe : the Last and Worst of the Bushrangers of Van
Diemen's Land, but he was an optimist in using the word
"last", for bushranging did not die out for another fifty
years. Bent's history of the six years' career of Michael Howe is not
available, but it was noticed in the year 1820 by the Edinburgh
Quarterly Review as a curiosity of literature. When Howe robbed Governor
Davey's farm at Richmond on 8 September i 8 f 6, among the booty he
demanded of the overseer was no less an article than a dictionary 1 This
was doubtless to assist him with his correspondence, for Howe, like many
of his successors, addressed braggadocio epistles to the Governors of
the time, threatening them with all sons of punishments. Howe escaped
hanging by having his head battered in by a soldier and a prisoner who
used their muskets with good effect as clubs.
These bushrangers had the name of being veritable will-o'-the-wisps, and
Matthew Brady was most evidently one of such, for there are "Brady
Lookouts" all over the island. Brady was one of the few who escaped
from Macquarie Harbour (his party seized a boat on 9 June 1824.) and he
kept the island in a state of ferment for a considerable period. He
captured the town of Sorell locked up the soldiers and liberated the
prisoners from the gaol. He threatened to repeat the performance in
Launceston, but was nearly captured in the attempt. It was close on two
years before Brady and his gang of fourteen bandits were dispersed,
Brady himself being captured by John Batman near his home in the Avoca
district. One of Brady's Lookouts-an authentic one this-is west of
Epping, in the Tiers, near a cave which he used as a hiding place.
Martin Cash, yet another of Epping's celebrities, was about the most
respectable of the fraternity of highwaymen, for only one death is
recorded against him-that of Constable Winstanley who attempted to
capture him in a Hobart street. Cash's slipperiness failed this time,
and after his apprehension he was sentenced to death, but was reprieved
and died at Glenorchy on 27 August 1877.
It is a pity that the main road misses Evandale, its house-roofs showing
up a few miles to the east. I cannot find any record of when Evandale
was actually born, nor by whom it was christened. Perhaps, like Topsy,
is simply "growed", but it has "growed" to be an
extremely pretty village. Captain Butler Stoney in I8s6 notes a public
school there in charge of Mrs Chilcot, the average attendance being
seven. The church was designed to hold 520, but alas for the optimistic
builders, the average attendance was but a dozen. The figures do not, I
suggest, necessarily indicate a tendency to irreligion on the part of
the folk of Evandale of those days but rather that the natural beauties
of the surroundings are responsible for keeping the townsfolk out of
doors, wandering by streamside or picnicking on the bushlands as yet
unspoiled by the hand of man.
Of the many rivers in the north of the island, the one most swollen by
the great flood of 1929 was the South Esk which rises on the slopes of
mighty Ben Lomond and flows for a goodly portion of its long and devious
course through the municipality of Evandale. The lower pans of the town
suffered grievously. The station buildings were covered, hayricks were
deposited where no hayricks should be, and the flood rose to the
insulators of the telegraph poles, felling many of them and flattening
down scrub
as though a gigantic steam roller had strolled that way. The Sunday
School children doubtless took a special interest just then in the story
of Noah and his ark, for they could certainly visualize the drama.
There is just one other story to be told about the Esk. A few years
back, two perfectly sober gentlemen captured an eel weighing 42 pounds,
length 5 feet 7 inches, girth 20 1/2 inches. If fish-yarners can beat
this they break the world's record. His Eelship put up a valiant battle
after he was landed, and in knocking down one of his captors twice
nearly gave him the knock-out. If the two eels Noah took with him in his
floating menagerie were bigger specimens than this one they must have
had a lively time on board. A duel between one of them and the
alligator-in-chief would have provided a real disturbance. Now that this
monster has been killed-doubters may see it in the Launceston
museum-perhaps we shall not hear so much of the bunyip that has been
bobbing up intermittently in the Great Lake for a few years past.
Chapter Four |